Meteorology · Waves — Steepening Over Current
Why can dangerously steep, breaking seas develop where a strong current opposes the wind and waves (e.g., Gulf Stream or Agulhas Current)?
- AThe current flattens all waves immediately
- BAn opposing current shortens wavelength and increases wave height and steepness, producing breaking seas✓ Correct
- CCurrents have no effect on waves
- DThe current only changes wave direction, not size
Explanation
When waves run against a current, the current compresses them — shortening wavelength while increasing height and steepness — so seas become abnormally high and break. This is why wind-against-current conditions in strong currents are notably hazardous.
Authority: Bowditch (Pub. No. 9), waves and currents; NOAA
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