Meteorology · Waves — Steepening Over Current

Why can dangerously steep, breaking seas develop where a strong current opposes the wind and waves (e.g., Gulf Stream or Agulhas Current)?

Explanation

When waves run against a current, the current compresses them — shortening wavelength while increasing height and steepness — so seas become abnormally high and break. This is why wind-against-current conditions in strong currents are notably hazardous.

Authority: Bowditch (Pub. No. 9), waves and currents; NOAA

Practice the full Meteorology bank

Free spaced-repetition quizzing across 2190 USCG exam questions — it schedules your reviews so the ones you miss come back until they stick.

Related Meteorology questions