Meteorology · Waves — Swell
Swell differs from sea (wind waves) in that swell:
- AHas traveled out of its generating area, appearing as longer-period, smoother, more regular waves✓ Correct
- BIs always steeper and more chaotic than sea
- COnly occurs in shallow water
- DIs generated locally by the present wind
Explanation
Swell consists of waves that have propagated away from where they were generated. Dispersion sorts them into long-period, low-steepness, regular crests. The direction of swell can reveal a distant storm before its wind arrives.
Authority: Bowditch (Pub. No. 9), sea and swell; WMO
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